The Ultimate Guide to San Jose

Hola 👋

Welcome to our Ultimate Guide to San José, Costa Rica. This guide looks a little different than our other Ultimate Guides, simply because San José is HUGE compared to most destinations we cover on Ultimate Pura Vida. Instead of our standard format, we’re focusing on what’s actually useful here. An overview of Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO), transportation options, popular neighborhoods, things to do, and some of our favorite restaurants and breweries.

For a long time, we were guilty of overlooking San José. It was always just the place you fly in and out of, nothing more than a stop between destinations. That changed once we started spending time here on and off over several weeks while traveling for medical appointments. San José has excellent medical facilities that are far more affordable than in the US and, in many cases, offer a higher level of care. We’re currently doing IVF in Costa Rica, and you can read more about our IVF experience here if it’s helpful for you or someone close to you.

We’re here to make the case that San José deserves more than a quick pass through. If you have a few extra days, it’s well worth slowing down and exploring. Highlights include day trips to Poás Volcano and La Paz Waterfall Gardens, visits to the National Museum of Costa Rica, and spending time in the distinct neighborhoods that make up the country’s capital.

San José is often overlooked by travelers, but there’s a lot more here than most expect. Let’s take a closer look.

Getting There

Normally, this section covers how to get from SJO or LIR to another destination. Since San José is the destination this time, we’re switching things up. First, we’ll cover what to expect when arriving at Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO). Then we’ll look at how to get to San José from everywhere else

Arriving at SJO

The San José Airport is easy to navigate for most travelers. While it’s the largest airport in Costa Rica, it’s still small compared to most international hubs. After exiting the plane, you’ll head straight to immigration, which can be quick or painfully slow depending on how many flights land at the same time. We’ve walked straight through, and we’ve also waited close to an hour. It really just depends on timing.

Immigration officers control your entry into the country, so a little courtesy goes a long way. Say good morning or good evening in Spanish if you can. Wearing a hat? Take it off. They will ask you to anyway when comparing you to your passport photo.

English is not always spoken, and you’re going to be asked three questions:

1. What is your occupation?
2. Where are you staying in Costa Rica?
3. When are you leaving the country?

That second question is where many travelers stumble. Hotels are fairly easy to confirm, but if you’re staying in an Airbnb or vacation rental, they’ll want the specific name and location of the property. Outside of San José, street addresses are really nonexistent. We recommend having your Airbnb listing pulled up on your phone so you can show the details if needed. Telling them, “I’m going to an Airbnb in Tamarindo,” doesn’t cut it.

Politeness matters here. If you show up unprepared and act entitled, immigration officers can slow things down quickly. We’ve seen it happen more than once.

Once you’re through immigration, you’ll pass duty free and head to baggage claim. If you didn’t grab local currency before arriving, this is a good time to do it. Skip the currency exchange counters, as the rates are usually terrible. Instead, look for the red BAC ATM just to the right when entering the baggage area. It’s a local Costa Rican bank with a solid exchange rate. You may pay an out-of-network ATM fee, but it’s almost always cheaper than the exchange counter.

After grabbing your bags, you’ll go through customs, place your luggage through an X-ray machine, and assuming nothing is flagged, you’re officially in Costa Rica. From here, you’ll either head out to meet an Uber or find your rental car company to hop on a shuttle to their off-site rental car office. Either way, welcome to Costa Rica.

From Everywhere Else

Getting to San José from most parts of Costa Rica is fairly straightforward. The country has only a handful of main highways, and nearly all of them funnel back through the capital.

If you’re self-driving, be aware that some routes include toll roads, so it’s helpful to have small bills in local currency. Both Google Maps and Waze work well in Costa Rica, and you can usually filter routes to avoid tolls if needed.

Many travelers fly into Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport (LIR) and exit the country through SJO, or vice versa. If that’s your plan, San José is an easy place to spend a few days before moving on to destinations like Manuel Antonio, La Fortuna, or Monteverde.

Up next, we’ll break down transportation options within San José and help you decide whether Uber, a rental car, or a mix of both makes the most sense.

Transportation

Rental Cars

If this section sounds a bit repetitive from our other city guides you've read... it is 🙃. We've synchronized the rental car section in our destination posts to provide you with the most up-to-date changes when we have something to add here, and the info applies to any destination you'll be visiting.

Rental cars are honestly the best way to get around Costa Rica, and Adobe Rent A Car is our recommended company. Their fleet of cars is refreshed frequently, keeping them in good condition. Plus, they have 15 offices in many towns and both international airports. Some major areas include: Manuel Antonio, Puerto Viejo, Tamarindo, and multiple in San José.

We used to roll with Economy Rent A Car and have always had a decent experience with them. Unfortunately, we've received too many complaints from our followers and can no longer recommend their general booking site. We have an awesome contact at Economy who still sets up many of our rentals. Shoot him a message on WhatsApp here, or use the contact form on our transportation page, and we can connect you.

Confusing insurance requirements are the most frequent complaint about rental cars in Costa Rica, so we really like how Adobe clearly displays the insurance options at checkout. It’s pretty hard to be surprised when you get there.

Rental car insurance in Costa Rica is complicated and often leaves you feeling burned at the rental counter if you're not careful. There are various levels of undisclosed insurance that can cost more than the rental car itself, so we've put together a post to clarify some of this topics. Check out our full guide to renting a car in Costa Rica here to avoid some major frustration later.

Be sure to use our Adobe Booking Portal or the form below to receive an exclusive discount.👇

Drivers

Private Driver – There are a ton of private drivers in the area. We’ve never used one here, but we’ve met some awesome people along the way that we’re happy to connect you with. Shoutout to Felix and Rolo 🤙

Uber – Uber has blown up in San Jose over the last few years. It’s now one of the easiest and cheapest ways to get around the city. Remember to add a travel credit card with no international fees to avoid being hit with penalty fees later from your bank.

Taxi – Official taxis are readily available throughout the city and at SJO Airport. At SJO, there is a kiosk for official taxis, where you will pay in advance, so there are no issues with payment or reaching your destination.

Shuttle – Shuttles are a great option for larger groups with a lot of luggage. We’ve used ILT Costa Rica for all of our shuttle needs when traveling with large groups. The drivers are prompt and professional.

Popular Neighborhoods

San José is a large, spread out city made up of many distinct neighborhoods, each with its own feel. Rather than calling out specific hotels or rentals, we’ll focus on a few popular areas that travelers often choose based on location, walkability, dining, and overall vibe.

Sabana

Sabana is one of the most popular neighborhoods for visitors staying in San José. It’s centered around La Sabana Metropolitan Park, a large green space where you’ll see people running, exercising, playing sports, and just doing some proper chilling. The area is safe and walkable, and filled with modern apartment buildings, restaurants, and the National Stadium.

Sabana is also a practical choice. It’s close to many medical facilities, business centers, and major roads, making it easy to get around the city. If you’re looking for a comfortable, convenient base without feeling right in the middle of downtown chaos, Sabana is a solid option.

Escalante

Barrio Escalante is known as one of San José’s most vibrant food and nightlife neighborhoods. It’s packed with restaurants, breweries, coffee shops, and bars, many of them clustered along a few lively streets. The area has a younger, more social energy and is popular with locals and expats alike. It’s a great place to stay if you want to walk to dinner, grab a drink in the evening, and feel plugged into the city’s creative side. It can be busy at night, so it’s better suited for travelers who enjoy activity rather than quiet.

Escazú

Escazú is one of the more upscale areas of the greater San José region. It’s home to shopping centers, international restaurants, embassies, and modern residential developments. It’s popular with expats and travelers who prefer a quieter, more polished environment. It’s less walkable than some neighborhoods and usually requires Uber or a car to get around, but it offers comfort, safety, and a more suburban feel compared to downtown San José.

Alajuela

Alajuela is technically its own city, but it’s closely tied to San José and worth mentioning here. It’s located very close to Juan Santamaría International Airport, making it a convenient option for short stays, early flights, or late arrivals.

Alajuela has a more local, residential feel and tends to be less hectic than central San José. While it doesn’t have the same dining or nightlife scene as Escalante or Escazú, it’s practical, affordable, and easy to navigate, especially if airport proximity is a priority.

Activities

A Quick Note: You’ll notice we occasionally recommend Viator. It's the tour booking company owned by TripAdvisor, and we link to their tours. If you book through our links, we earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. We do this instead of cluttering the site with annoying ads. Seriously, have you ever seen a travel website with fewer ads than ours? We love sharing our experiences and hearing how our recommendations help make your trips even better. Some additional benefits are highlighted below.

• ⏰ Viator offers a 24-hour cancellation policy for nearly all of the activities, regardless of the tour company's policies.
• 🔒 Viator secures your payment information with the best technology in the business. Your credit card info doesn't sit in a local office... somewhere.
• 💸 Viator offers "Reserve Now and Pay Later" options for many activities.

Don't miss our Official Viator Tour Page to see recommended tours and experiences sorted by destination.

• Bites and Sights Walking Food Tour
• Starbucks Hacienda Alsacia Coffee Tour (Official Site)
• Poás Volcano National Park (Official Site)
• La Paz Waterfall Gardens (Official Site)
• The National Museum of Costa Rica (Official Site)
• San José Central Market
• Downtown people watching with a cold brew (our favorite anywhere)

Want to bundle the best of these together for the ultimate day in San José? Check out the full-day tour below that combines a trip to Poas Volcano, La Paz Waterfall Gardens, and a Coffee Plantation Experience. Let the tour guide handle the crazy San Jose traffic!

Restaurants

This is not a complete restaurant guide to San José. It’s a list of some of our favorite places to eat in San José so far. Big difference.

San José is massive, and it would take years to eat our way through the city properly. This list is simply a starting point based on places we’ve personally tried and enjoyed. We also have the slightly ambitious goal of visiting every craft brewery in Costa Rica, so if beer is your thing, you can check out our Costa Rica Craft Beer Guide for more ideas.

The list below is in no particular order. Just good food we’d happily go back to again.

• Café St. Honoré – A charming French bakery and bistro in the Rohrmoser area. Great pastries, solid coffee, and an easy spot to linger.

• Il Vicolo Trattoria – Classic Italian comfort food. The pumpkin ravioli alone is worth the visit.

• Tacopedia – A local favorite with a steady line out the door. The pastor tacos are the move here.

• MOOSE Café and Pizza – We’ve only been for breakfast so far, but the rest of the menu looks just as good.

• Alkafé – A simple, reliable cafe in Alajuela. Perfect if you’re staying near the airport or passing through.

• UFO Burger – Kitschy and fun with a full UFO theme. The burgers are solid and worth ordering. The sides are weak, but the burgers make it worth the stop.

• Soberanos Brewing Co. – Yes, it’s a brewery, but the food is the real surprise here. The Asian fusion dishes are some of the best we’ve had anywhere.

Don’t Forget

You can buy almost anything you need in the area, but the prices of some items may surprise you. Sunscreen can cost upwards of $20 USD for a normal size tube at the local market. Some of our don’t forget items are listed below.

Sunscreen – Reapply all day when you’re outside. The sun is no joke here!
Bug Spray – Bugs are minimal in the day but mosquitoes often come out in the evening.
Quick-dry towel – These quick-dry towels are also sand free.
Waterproof hat – I like this floating hat, but anythig works.
Polarized sunglasses – They don’t have to break the bank. Check out these polarized sunglasses by Blenders.
Waterproof phone case – Great if you’re going to be on the ocean, rivers, or in a quick downpour.

Let’s Go

San José is often treated as nothing more than a place to land and leave, but spending real time here completely changed how we see Costa Rica’s capital. It’s a city made up of distinct neighborhoods, great food, easy transportation, and access to some of the country’s best day trips, all without needing to rush.

This guide to San José Costa Rica is meant to help you slow down, get your bearings, and see the city for what it is rather than skipping past it. Whether you’re here for a few nights before heading elsewhere, visiting for medical appointments, or simply curious about an often overlooked destination, San José has more to offer than most travelers expect.

Like everything on Ultimate Pura Vida, this guide will continue to evolve as we spend more time in the city and uncover new neighborhoods, restaurants, and experiences. If you have a few extra days in your itinerary, give San José a chance. You might be surprised how much you enjoy it.

Headed to the Beach?

If your Costa Rica plans include the beaches of northern Guanacaste, we’d love to help. We run a small vacation rental company called Colibri Hospitality, based in Playa Flamingo. The name is inspired by Costa Rica’s hummingbirds and reflects how we approach hosting. Thoughtful, local, and detail focused.

If you’re looking for a comfortable home base near Playa Flamingo, Potrero, or Brasilito, feel free to reach out. We’re always happy to share local insight and help point you in the right direction. Pura Vida 🤙